8/30/2023 0 Comments Coolant engine flow thermostat![]() Second, engines need to operate near the boiling point of water. When the thermostat is closed, it allows sufficient time for this to occur, and when it opens, the coolant flows into the engine and is able to absorb heat to begin another cycle. First, the engine coolant must remain in the radiator long enough to transfer its heat to the air. Thermostats always have had two purposes. Since cooling systems needed the ability to remove more heat, they quickly evolved into utilizing water pumps and thermostats. Basic logic tells us that the more power an engine produces, the more heat is generated that must be removed. If you think about an engine on a scientific basis, it’s nothing more than a way to convert heat energy into mechanical energy. The result was a continuous circulation of coolant through the engine, requiring no water pump or thermostat to make it work.Īlthough the early cooling system worked well, it had no choice but to evolve, as engines got bigger and became more powerful. As it cooled, it fell to the bottom of the radiator, where it then would flow into the engine block. Scientifically known as “thermosyphon systems,” the hot coolant in the engine rose upward into the top tank of the radiator. However, the early cooling systems were … simple. The term “cooling system” originally came about on the early automobile, and that’s exactly what they did. To understand the technology of today’s cooling system and why the name almost deserves a change, let’s first look at a brief history mixed with a touch of science. But it’s a very accurate representation of what a modern-day cooling system does. Should I be observing significant pressure in the cooling system after warm-up / driving? For grins I put a thermometer down into the coolant fill port after driving it awhile, and temp was 190F.Make no mistake: The name is not real – at least not yet. I pressure tested the cooling system after reinstalling the thermostat and there's no leaks. Strangely, after a 15 minute drive, I was able to remove the radiator cap afterwards and there was little or no pressure in it. I'm pretty sure the thermostat has to be opening because there's no way I could idle or drive that long without the engine seriously overheating if the t-stat wasn't opening. Not sure why the running temp is so high, but I'm beginning to think it might be the coolant temp sensor giving off too high a reading- it's also causing the cooling fans to stay on all the time, since they're triggered at about 204F. It will peak at around 205-210F and stays there no matter how long I idle, or even a long drive. Before, I had shut the engine down at 210F but this time I let it continue to run. Got some air bubbles for a few minutes as temp moved through 180F. Reassembled car, repeat the bleeding process. Pretty much behaving exactly as they're supposed to. Both thermostats opened around the same time- began to open at around 180F, fully open by 195F. I put both in a pot of water with a thermometer, and heated the water to boiling. I went and bought another thermostat just to have on hand and pulled the old one. Could the cool water on that side be preventing the thermostat from opening? Or does it effectively work the same way no matter which side the thermostat is on? Curious if you folks have any ideas or suggestions / things to check. This one has the thermostat after the radiator outlet. I suppose it's not outside the realm of possibility to have gotten a bad thermostat, but I'd like to eliminate all the other possible causes as the thermostat is a bit of a chore to change out.Īll the other engines I remember working on have had the thermostat before the inlet side of the radiator (installed at the upper radiator hose). I'm a bit puzzled, in the past I've had no issues with bleeding air after servicing the cooling system. I see no movement of the coolant through the radiator fill when the engine running at temp. Upper cooling hose is hot, lower cooling hose is cool, as is the bottom half of the radiator. Let it cool down a bit, reinstalled radiator cap and went for a short test drive, temps climbed up past 200F and I stopped the engine before it got to 210F. Let it run till it got to operating temp and cooling fans came on (approx 205*), heater is blowing hot air. Filled up with coolant, and while on a steep incline started up the engine and proceeded to bleed the cooling system by letting it warm up with the radiator cap off. Pressure tested the system after reassembly, holds pressure fine, no leaks. Basically did a cooling system refresh- new coolant, thermostat, several hoses, coolant temp sensor, etc.
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